Tuesday, December 15, 2009

Nozawa Onsen

Nozawa Onsen
野沢温泉

Nozawa Onsen is a great little hot spring village in Nagano prefecture.
I go up there at least once every winter. Nozawa is very popular with Aussies
and on weekdays it often seems like half the people on the mountain are
non-Japanese. Japanese are seemingly always anxious when lots of foreigners
start showing up someplace in Japan. You hear how places are going to lose their
unique "Japanese-ness" and that sort of thing. My impression, from talking with the
couple who run the inn I always stay at, Minhusku Kakushige,
http://homepage2.nifty.com/kakushige/index.htm
and the men at the public baths, is that the locals appreciate the visitors but worry
that the town looks less and less Japanese with all the foreign faces. It seems like
run of the mill "shimaguni konjo" (island country mentality) thinking to me. All of the
Australian visitors I've met up there are very positive about Japan and go out
of their way to learn and obey the local customs.

Dinner at the inn. It's hard to beat after a long day on the mountain.
Note the raw horse meat on the right.
it was delicious! After dinner, a stroll down to the local
neighborhood public bath and you're ready for bed by 9:00pm
there might be 50 people in this same picture

Nice and warm in front of the inn on my way back from the hot spring bath

My room with the kotatsu (table with a heater underneath
covered with a blanket) right in the middle


Hida/Takayama

Takayama in Gifu prefecture is apparently the largest city in Japan in area.
I can believe it. I've driven up there a few times and coming from the south
you see a sign "Takayama city limit" about 50 kilometers away in the middle
of nowhere. It's got a pleasant little town center to walk around, a cool
outdoor cultural museum and is known for having lots of sake breweries,
a great festival and an interesting souvenir doll called a "Saru bobo."


Akiko, myself (looking distinctly uncomfortable) and some Saru bobo
at the outdoor museum, Hida Minzoku Mura 飛騨民俗村

A small neighborhood festival in Takayama.
Unfortunately, not the one Takayama is famous for.
This couple was holding hands until the instant
before I snapped this pic.

A side street in Takayama. Like many places in
Japan, especially tourist destinations, the main
sights will be wall to wall people but a few minutes
walk will bring you to completely empty spaces.
One of the things I love about this country.

This is how mom and I got from Hamamatsu to Takayama!
Everyone who sees this thinks it's Kyoto.
It's hard not to feel goofy and embarrassed riding
a rickshaw. It was quite fun actually.
人力車で浜松から高山まで行って来ました!

高山の裏道の建物


Wednesday, November 25, 2009

Izu

The Izu pennisula juts out into the ocean
between Tokyo and Hamamatsu where I live.
Izu is actually also part of Shizouka prefecture.
I love going up there because it has a beautiful
rugged coastline, hot springs, good surf spots
and nice hiking trails.
We were exploring around Shimoda and we
happened upon this cove. This was apparently
a bunker built during WWII in anticipation of
the allied invasion.
The room in our inn in Izu. I've stayed in this place
now five times, twice with Akiko. It's actually a youth
hostel but a very nice one!
Dinner. Yum yum! After a long drive
and a longer surf it was just what the
doctor ordered.

The bath. It's a real onsen (hot spring) and has an
outdoor bath on the right just out of the picture.
It's a wonderful way to end the day. After a great
meal with a beer and a dip in the bath we're in bed
by 9:00pm and sleep like babies.

Wednesday, October 21, 2009

Miyazaki

Miyazaki in Kyushu probably has the consistently best
waves in Japan. If you enjoy big city life it might be a tough
place to live as it's a bit remote and slower paced. I loved it.

The profile of Miyazaki has recently been raised due
to their tireless celebrity Governor Higashikokubara,
a former comedian and TV presenter.
For more information on Governor Higashikokubara check out this
not completely flattering link:
Despite the incidents in his past he's
very popular and it seems like he's on TV virtually
everyday promoting something Miyazaki.

This is me on the overnight ferry in Osaka
Next stop Miyazaki.


Better surf than it looks. I don't know if the locals knew
something I didn't because they all were sitting on the
inside while me and one other guy had the outside
with good waves all to ourselves. Go figure.

Takachiho, Miyazaki
This is an important place in Japanese mythology.
It is where the founding god of Japan supposedly
descended from heaven. Many of the local shrines
have regular performances of the Japanese creation myth.
If I remember correctly this is Takachiho Shrine.

Takachiho Gorge, Miyazaki

Kyoto

I usually go to Kyoto three or four times a year. It's a great place
to see in the different seasons although mid-summer and
mid-winter are both pretty brutal. Of course the major temples
are usually quite crowded but it's fairly easy to find beautiful
out of the way places that still retain the Kyoto "hannari" atmosphere.
Hannari, as far as I understand it, means a kind of elegant beauty.

Anyone who has ever been to Kyoto has (or should have) this exact same photo!
Kinkakuji/The Golden Pavilion

Koto-in at Diatokuji Temple 京都のちょっとした穴場
Lanterns at Yasaka Jinja Gion, Kyoto
The lanterns have the names of companies or people
who have made contributions to the temple
Kiyomizu Temple, Kyoto
There is a famous Japanese saying that when you do something risky,
take a big chance on something or take a leap into the unknown you are
"Jumping off the platform at Kiyomizu Temple"
『清水舞台から飛び降りる』
That's the platform behind me. Of course, really jumping
off it would probably be fatal.

Geisha trainees called "Maiko" and a local pensioner
No doubt they are talking baseball or sharing stock tips.
何について話しているかな?


Monday, October 19, 2009

Nagasaki

A city famous the world over due to having been
the second city to suffer an atomic bomb attack.
A pretty city in a beautiful setting with a long history
of contact with the outside world. Nagasaki was one of
only places in Japan that maintained some contact with
western countries when Japan was largely closed to the
outside world. This is me relaxing and waiting for my tea
to come at a small museum in Nagasaki's Chinatown.


This is a photo from a house in Glover
garden where some of the wealthy western traders
lived when Japan opened back up to the west in the
late 19th century. The weather wasn't the best that day
but maybe you can get a sense of the scenery of
the city and it's wonderful setting on the harbor. This is
looking toward the city while to the left the
harbor eventually opens up to the open sea.


Dejima is the very small
island in the harbor on which the Dutch traders were housed.
This photo is of the inside of what a Dutch traders house
on Dejima might have looked like; it's an interesting
combination of Japanese and western styles.
My favorite part of Nagasaki was the quiet and atmospheric Chinatown
(at least it was on the days I was there).